Sunday, September 11, 2016
11.09.2016 - 12.09.2016
Slept til 7:30; felt good. No longer in a B&B, we’re back to cereal for breakfast, much easier on the digestion. I tried the Internet again. No luck so I sent a text message to our hosts. Obviously, I can’t e-mail them. We drove into Angers for church and discovered the parking lot we wanted was closed for a carnival. Aaaaagh! Drove around a bit and found a great parking spot right beside the Cathédrale Saint-Maurice d’Angers. The Force is with us . . . This is a much better parking place than we had planned. We also got the very last place here.
It was an hour early so we wandered around taking pictures and reading about the Cathedral restoration. Finally went inside and got interior pictures. It’s beautiful, but not quite like the spectacular church in Tours. The wood carvings here are amazing though. Definitely worth a visit for that alone, but it is a beautiful church.
People appeared and the Mass started. The song leader could have used a few music lessons, and she and the organist weren’t always on the same page, but the littlest altar boys were tiny and really cute. The church was packed. It seems to be a very active congregation.
After church, we exited by a side door to Place Freppel and got a table on the terrace at La Ferme Restaurant. We were safely under an umbrella in case of rain and there was a wooden platform that was great for my purse, the water and a bottle of Anjou wine. We both ordered the pintade (guinea hen) with roasted vegetables and it was excellent. We got a bottle of a light red from Champigny and it was perfect for the fowl. Then came dessert . . .
Ed got the crémet d’Anjou for dessert and I ordered La « fameuse » Bouse de Vache (Grande profiterole) that was the largest profiterole I’ve ever seen. It was a mountain filled with vanilla, chocolate and coffee ice cream and drowned in dark chocolate syrup. The waiter laughed when he set it down. Ed helped me eat it, but the two of us couldn’t finish it. The man beside us got one too and it arrived just as a French tour group was passing and they all stopped to comment and joke with him. We wished him bon courage. His two daughters helped him, but they couldn’t finish either. It’s a BIG profiterole! (bouse de vache is a cow pie) The funny part is a rather small lady behind me ordered one and she actually ate the whole thing. I have no idea where she put it all as she was definitely a very petite French woman. [La Ferme, 2 Place Freppel, 49100 Angers, France; tel: +33 (0)2 4187-0990; La Ferme Restaurant web site]
We walked up rue St. Evrault to the château, paid and entered. We immediately walked down to the Apocalypse Gallery to see the famous Apocalypse Tapestry. There is a very good movie explaining it before you enter the gallery. The tapestry is mammoth, covering the entirety of two walls in a very long L-shaped room. It’s an amazing experience. No photos are allowed so we bought a book in the gift shop. We also bought a tapestry pillow cover of the Lady and the Unicorn to go on the new quilt we got for Peg’s former bedroom. Each of the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries depicts one of the senses so we got "hearing" since we're all musicians.
After seeing the Apocalypse tapestry, we explored the rest of the château and walked part of the ramparts. You can see most of Angers from there and everyone is in town for the carnival and a concert by the river. It was a madhouse . . . as we discovered when we tried to leave and many roads were blocked and people were walking in the street.
With the help of two GPS machines, we escaped Angers and got back to our gite where the Internet has still not been fixed and I sent yet another text message to our missing hosts. They don’t seem very Internet savvy so they may require help on Monday. I just need to reset the router if I could find it . . . Not sure how to explain that in French. Also not sure how they hid it so well, but this is a big house.