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Château de Brézé, a Troglodyte Château; lunch at Fontevraud

Friday, September 16, 2016


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Woke to pouring rain. Fortunately our umbrellas are dry from yesterday! No messages from Mme. Gueho, our next hostess, so I hope she got at least one of my messages. Put on our raincoats and started a gas station search. Peugeot GPS failed us, but Garmin came through. That chore out of the way, we set off down the D113 to the D952 along the Loire, a beautiful drive even in the rain. Our goal du jour was Château de Brézé, so we crossed the Loire at Saumur and got on the D93 directly to Brézé. It was nearly lunch time so we asked at the ticket office about a nearby restaurant and she tried to send us back to Saumur. No way! We drove across country to Fontevraud, much nicer.

*****

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It was pouring so we couldn’t eat outside which nixed Comptoir des Vins so we walked across the plaza to Le Plantagenêt, the restaurant of the Hotel La Croix Blanche, a Logis de France. We were seated in a cosy room and given menus. The special du jour was chicken and we have that at home all the time so decided to order confit de canard off the carte. It came with garlic roasted potatoes (no other vegetables) and was absolutely delicious. The bread was 4 tiny baguettes in a tin pail . . . cute and warm and delicious. We got a local Anjou red wine and for dessert Ed got ice cream in quenelle shape and I tried the café gourmand, coffee with three tiny desserts. It was a delicious meal in an elegant setting. [Le Plantagenêt, 5 Place des Plantagenets, 49590 Fontevraud-l'Abbaye, France; tel: +33 (0)2 4151-7111; Le Plantagenêt Restaurant web site]

*****

Château de Brézé

Château de Brézé

Château de Brézé

Château de Brézé

After our wonderful lunch, we returned to Château de Brézé, paid and entered the partly troglodyte castle. You explore the subterranean part first so we climbed down stairs into the darkness and continued down a very lumpy, uneven ramp. I tried my small flashlight but it was useless. Fortunately, I found a camera setting that worked and got fairly good photos without resorting to the blinding flash. Interestingly, Mme. Gueho, our gite hostess next week, called while we were in the cave so I called her back from a doorway. I was surprised the phone worked down here. Even in the doorway, we are about two floors underground. Glad it worked because now we’re set for our arrival there tomorrow. Château de Brézé web site

Château de Brézé, one wing

Château de Brézé, one wing

Château de Brézé, porch wing

Château de Brézé, porch wing

*****

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We climbed all over the troglodyte sections and walked the entire moat (in the rain) and then headed upstairs for the “real” château. Only a small part is open but it is very well cared for and interesting. We also voted the château toilettes, in a separate building in front of the château, to be the cleanest we’ve seen so far. They were immaculate.

Château de Brézé underground

Château de Brézé underground

Château de Brézé underground

Château de Brézé underground

Château de Brézé, moat entrances to the underground section

Château de Brézé, moat entrances to the underground section

Château de Brézé, photos taken in the moat (in the rain)

Château de Brézé, photos taken in the moat (in the rain)

Château de Brézé underground

Château de Brézé underground

*****

Château de Brézé, two photos combined

Château de Brézé, two photos combined


We bought a bottle of wine in the gift shop and headed home reversing our morning trip. We stopped at the boulanger up the road in Pellouailles for our evening baguette and a chocolate flan. With our cheese and apple, we had a great supper.

Château de Brézé Vineyard

Château de Brézé Vineyard

Château de Brézé Tower Entrance

Château de Brézé Tower Entrance

*****

Tomorrow we leave for Haie-Fouassière and our next gite.

Posted by Beausoleil 11:03 Archived in France Tagged chateau troglodyte breze Comments (1)

Champtoceaux and driving to our next gite

Saturday, September 17, 2016


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Ruined castle by the road at Champtocé-sur-Loire

Ruined castle by the road at Champtocé-sur-Loire


Up early for a final cleaning and to finish packing. We telephoned our hosts to tell them we were ready for checkout and they came right over, looked through the house and returned our deposit. We packed the car and headed west. I set the GPS to avoid tolls, i.e., the A11 and A87, so we skirted Angers and moved west on the D723. We planned our midday stop at Champtoceaux and arrived a bit before lunch so parked and took photos of the famous twin towers, the locked church and walked to the panoramic viewpoint looking up and down the Loire. It was spectacular.

Crossing the Loire at Ancenis

Crossing the Loire at Ancenis

Champtoceaux Towers

Champtoceaux Towers

Champtoceaux Walk along the Loire

Champtoceaux Walk along the Loire

Champtoceaux on the Promenade above the Loire

Champtoceaux on the Promenade above the Loire

Mysterious Château behind the Two Towers

Mysterious Château behind the Two Towers

*****

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We checked the two restaurants in town and decided on Les Jardins de la Forge beside the two towers. We entered as they opened and were shown to a satin-draped, linen-covered large round table in their very elegant dining room. Service was immediate. We ordered the menu Duo, plat and dessert, and both of us got merlu with a very nice Sancerre white wine. We were started with an amuse bouche that was green, savory and absolutely unidentifiable but delicious. The merlu was served with fennel and on a bed of spaghetti-cut courgette in a crevette sauce and topped with three nice-sized crevettes. It had a faintly smoky flavor and was utterly mouth-watering. We both got the chocolate dessert special which was a semifrozen mousse bombe on a vanilla cooky, chocolate sauce with leaf veining of crème anglais and a noir-et-blanc chocolate straw. Coffee was served with two small meringues on a silver dish . . . all very elegant and a wonderful meal. [Les Jardins de la Forge, 1 bis Place des Piliers, 49270 Champtoceaux; tel: +33 (0)2 4083-5623]

*****

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Eglise Notre Dame in La Haie-Fouassière

Eglise Notre Dame in La Haie-Fouassière


After lunch we tried to find the moulin pendu but had no luck so set the GPS for the gite and moved on. We arrived early in La Haie (Haye)-Fouassière so parked by the church Notre Dame de la Haie-Fouassière and got out our umbrellas to explore. Decided to wait the fifteen minutes until the boulangerie opened, so found an awning and waited. At 3:00 it opened and we got our daily bread and a nice dessert. By then Cocci Market was open so we got wine, cheese, milk and juice and a plump melon before driving to our gite . . . still a half hour early.

Stained glass in Eglise Notre Dame in La Haie-Fouassière

Stained glass in Eglise Notre Dame in La Haie-Fouassière

Eglise Notre Dame in La Haie-Fouassière

Eglise Notre Dame in La Haie-Fouassière

Eglise Notre Dame in La Haie-Fouassière

Eglise Notre Dame in La Haie-Fouassière

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Mme. Gueho opened the gate and greeted us. We parked and took the tour of the house. She has a tablet that translates which was great fun to start but got tiring when she wouldn’t even listen to our French. If she couldn’t speak English, we weren’t going to be allowed to speak French and the machine was pretty sketchy at translating so it took forever. I think she just got her translator and is still quite excited about it. As we discovered during the week, she truly is a gem. Electronic translation aside, the house is gorgeous and we love it. They have renovated an old windmill and our wing is new and everything is just perfect.

Le Moulin des Landes, our Gite for the Week

Le Moulin des Landes, our Gite for the Week

More photos of Le Moulin des Landes, our gite

More photos of Le Moulin des Landes, our gite

Le Moulin des Landes, our lovely living room

Le Moulin des Landes, our lovely living room

We settled in, got unpacked and drove into town for the 6:30 PM Mass. The church is beautiful and the congregation quite large. Came home to a lovely French picnic and some much-needed relaxation in our beautiful, large living room. Again, the house is too large for us but it's under 500 euros for a week so we'll just enjoy all the space. Les Moulin des Landes web site

Posted by Beausoleil 11:49 Archived in France Tagged churches windmills gites_de_france Comments (0)

Nantes

Sunday, September 18, 2016


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Statue of Anne de Bretagne outside her Château

Statue of Anne de Bretagne outside her Château


Slept a little this morning since we went to church last evening. Woke to news reports of a bombing in NYC and a stabbing at a Minnesota mall . . . supposedly neither terrorist related. Had a leisurely breakfast and fought with the very slow internet connection. Found a map of Nantes and set off to visit the château for free on European Patrimony Day. Our GPS got us safely to Nantes after routing us through a farmyard. I recognized the château parking area from Google so we parked with no problem. They do charge for parking on Patrimony Day!

*****

Château des ducs de Bretagne in Nantes

Château des ducs de Bretagne in Nantes

Château des ducs de Bretagne in Nantes, two photos

Château des ducs de Bretagne in Nantes, two photos


We walked around to the entrance and got in line for free tickets. They’ve upped security since the recent Notre Dame incident (a car full of explosives was found parked near N.D. in Paris) so we had to check our dangerous folding umbrellas in the locker room. That also was not free. From the locker room you walk through the crowded book store and go downstairs to a nicely done animation of the history of the château. (All the movies we saw had an inset with someone doing hand signing for the hearing impaired.) Then we went back up another flight to go through a museum of Nantes. The château itself has disappeared behind the museum layout which covers early Romans through Anne de Bretagne, the slave trade, WWI and WWII at which point you climb back down all the stairs you’ve climbed up. We hiked up and walked the ramparts and then back down to discover their restaurant is a creperie so we departed the castle looking for lunch. Château des ducs de Bretagne web site

Château des ducs de Bretagne in Nantes

Château des ducs de Bretagne in Nantes

Well at the Château des ducs de Bretagne

Well at the Château des ducs de Bretagne

Museum inside the Château des ducs de Bretagne

Museum inside the Château des ducs de Bretagne

LU Biscuit advertisements at the Château des ducs de Bretagne

LU Biscuit advertisements at the Château des ducs de Bretagne

LU Biscuit Tower from the Château des ducs de Bretagne

LU Biscuit Tower from the Château des ducs de Bretagne

Château des ducs de Bretagne from the ramparts

Château des ducs de Bretagne from the ramparts

*****

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We hiked up the hill and found a carnival at Place M. Foch, walked past it to the Cathedral and found an Irish Pub. Kept walking and had not much luck. Sandwiches, crepes, Italian and Irish were our choices.

We decided on Café Luigi on Place du Pilori with a sorry violinist busking. He was oddly playing Mozart's 40th Symphony in G minor, one of my favorites, but not on a lone out-of-tune violin. Ed got a pizza and I got a terrific ham and cheese bruschetta and fortunately we got a new busker, a mandolin/drum combo doing very nice Middle-Eastern-style music. We opted for gelato for dessert . . . it was an Italian restaurant . . . and it was very good. Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul web site

*****

Cathédrale Saint-Pierre et Saint-Paul de Nantes

Cathédrale Saint-Pierre et Saint-Paul de Nantes

Tomb of General de la Moricière in the Cathedral of Nantes

Tomb of General de la Moricière in the Cathedral of Nantes

Stained glass window in Cathédrale Saint-Pierre et Saint-Paul de Nantes

Stained glass window in Cathédrale Saint-Pierre et Saint-Paul de Nantes

Triptych of the Nativity by Alain Thomas in the Chapel of the Sacred Heart

Triptych of the Nativity by Alain Thomas in the Chapel of the Sacred Heart

Tomb of Francis II, father of Anne de Bretagne

Tomb of Francis II, father of Anne de Bretagne

*****

Carnival or Fun Fair at Place Maréchal Foch

Carnival or Fun Fair at Place Maréchal Foch


I had noticed people buying baguettes at a nearby sandwich shop so we decided to try our luck and got our dinner baguette there. We then left to find the Beaux Arts museum which is, as advertised, closed for renovation but I did photograph the outside.

Moved on to the Chapel of the Immaculate Conception (Chapelle de L’Immaculée) where we got to see most of it before they closed for a concert. The stained glass was lovely and there is a museum of sorts in a side chapel with various vestments on view. We had walked through a carnival to get to the Chapel and around it again to get back to parking. It covered Cours St. Pierre beside the Cathedral and Place Maréchal-Foch at the far end. It must be associated with Patrimony Days and all Nantes was enjoying it.

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Chapel of the Immaculate Conception

Chapel of the Immaculate Conception

Chapel of the Immaculate Conception in Nantes

Chapel of the Immaculate Conception in Nantes

*****

Carnival from the château parking lot

Carnival from the château parking lot


Headed back to the car and used our GPS to get home. Got an e-mail from Jean who had a job stopped because of an endangered frog that had to be relocated. This seems to be the year of the frog. Fortunately Jean is sympathetic to environmental causes; not sure all the other engineers shared her concern.

Looking forward to a nice quiet evening at our gite.

Posted by Beausoleil 11:17 Archived in France Comments (3)

Clisson, a beautiful French village

Monday, September 19, 2016


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Château de Clisson

Château de Clisson

We decided on Clisson for today since the château is closed on Tuesdays. After breakfast we set the GPS for the Clisson town center figuring we’d find the château when we arrived. It was a short drive and we found parking at Place des Douves but couldn’t figure out where to pay for parking so we went into an Express Carrefour Market to ask (and look for Carol Lynn’s two requests). The gentleman who worked there said we needed a blue parking plaque or disc but that we couldn’t buy one. Then he offered us his for the day. We gratefully accepted so he ran to his car and got his blue disc and set the time at 11:00 AM and we thanked him profoundly and set off on foot.

Near the Château de Clisson

Near the Château de Clisson

Entrance to Château de Clisson

Entrance to Château de Clisson


We quickly found the château two blocks away and there was free parking there. Sigh . . . At least we met a very friendly and generous Frenchman and are parking for free thanks to him. We took some pictures in the little park and then walked around to the north entrance down a few steps and across a drawbridge. The ticket agent gave us our tickets and a map and we set off into the ruins exploring.

*****

Château de Clisson

Château de Clisson


It’s pretty primitive but very interesting and had several animations that were well done. The “facilities” were unique . . . dry toilets you used and then tossed in sawdust from a big bin to cover, kind of like kitty litter. Live and learn . . . We wandered all over the château snapping photos and climbing up and down uneven stairs without railings . . . definitely not handicapped friendly. There are amazing views from several places in the château, including the beautiful villa on the opposite side of the river. There are two prominent church steeples, one on this side of the river and one on the other. Lots to explore. Château de Clisson web site

Château de Clisson

Château de Clisson

Château de Clisson

Château de Clisson

Clisson from Château de Clisson

Clisson from Château de Clisson

Château de Clisson interior views

Château de Clisson interior views

*****

Le Quartier Saint Antoine (from near the château entrance)

Le Quartier Saint Antoine (from near the château entrance)

As we left, we asked the ticket agent about restaurants and he directed us down a very long flight of steep stone stairs to the town and bridge. He suggested the Auberge du Château and it wasn’t open so we crossed the picturesque stone bridge to the next restaurant, also closed, and continued up to Villa St. Antoine where the door was open and people were eating. They ignored us and we finally figured out it was the staff having their lunch. One of them finally condescended to tell us they opened in fifteen minutes so we left to explore a little more. As we returned, we still had a few minutes and half the staff was blocking the street having a last smoke. It was pretty smelly so we decided to go back and check the Auberge du Château again and this time it was open.

*****

Auberge du Château in Clisson

Auberge du Château in Clisson


We entered and a very nice young man helped us find the perfect table on the enclosed terrace overlooking the river. Life is good! The daily special wasn’t anything we particularly enjoyed so we ordered a la carte starting with a green salad followed by tournedos de canard with vegetables and potatoes. Ordered a half bottle of the local red wine and had a wonderful meal. We both got fondant au chocolat for dessert and I had coffee. The place quickly filled up and there was a line outside. It is a very good little restaurant and we had a great lunch. I can see why the the fellow at the château recommended it. We were glad circumstances conspired to lead us there. Eating lunch overlooking the beautiful Sèvre Nantaise river is extraordinary. [Auberge du Château, 2 rue de la Collégiale 44190 Clisson; tel: +33 (0)2 4054-3208; e-mail: aubergeduchateau@wanadoo.fr; Auberge du Château web site]

Château de Clisson from the Pont de la Vallée

Château de Clisson from the Pont de la Vallée

Eglise de la Trinité from the Pont de la Vallée

Eglise de la Trinité from the Pont de la Vallée

*****

Eglise de la Trinité

Eglise de la Trinité

Eglise de la Trinité, stained glass and reflections

Eglise de la Trinité, stained glass and reflections

After lunch, we recrossed the little bridge and hiked up to Église de la Trinité stopping at a viewpoint for pictures. We checked the church garden and then walked toward the beautiful villa we had seen from the castle. On the way we noticed a robot lawn mower. It was mowing through a large park with pear trees and you heard it every time it hit a pear on the ground. We continued across the viaduct and down some stairs to find the Domaine de la Garenne Lemot. We were greeted with more steps up to the Villa Lamot but the views of the town, castle and churches were worth the climb. Domaine de la Garenne Lemot web site

*****

Domaine de la Garenne Lamot veranda

Domaine de la Garenne Lamot veranda


We rested on the shaded terrace for a few minutes enjoying the views and when we got up to move on, I had a grasshopper on my head! He was quickly returned to the grass . . . We walked around to the front of the villa and then over to the very impressive gardener’s cottage and through the courtyard. Returned to a statue I had noticed and found a nice flat sloping path down to the river and back to the entrance.

One of the Follies in Domaine de la Garenne Lemot

One of the Follies in Domaine de la Garenne Lemot

View from the veranda of Domaine de la Garenne Lemot

View from the veranda of Domaine de la Garenne Lemot

Italian Villa at Domaine de la Garenne Lemot

Italian Villa at Domaine de la Garenne Lemot

Italian Villa at Domaine de la Garenne Lemot

Italian Villa at Domaine de la Garenne Lemot

Domaine de la Garenne Lemot Gardeners House

Domaine de la Garenne Lemot Gardeners House

*****

Stairway from the château down to the Saint-Antoine district (with cat)

Stairway from the château down to the Saint-Antoine district (with cat)

We exited and returned back over the little bridge past our luncheon auberge toward the castle but continued up the hill on rue de la Collegiale where we found more steps up to Notre Dame which we explored. Up a few more steps and through a gigantic market (empty) and through a side entry to Place du Minage that we immediately recognized as near the château entry. It was an easy walk back to the Carrefour Express to get laundry soap, a baguette and to return the parking placard to the nice man who loaned it to us. He wasn’t there and the ladies didn’t understand but a man behind us in line offered to translate and we got it all settled. Good day; nice people; gorgeous town.

Another stairway up to Eglise Notre Dame

Another stairway up to Eglise Notre Dame

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Eglise Notre Dame in Clisson

Eglise Notre Dame in Clisson

Pizzaria in Clisson - beautiful flowers

Pizzaria in Clisson - beautiful flowers

Château de Clisson and Villa Domaine de la Garenne Lemot from the Park

Château de Clisson and Villa Domaine de la Garenne Lemot from the Park

Posted by Beausoleil 10:51 Archived in France Tagged churches restaurants chateau robot clisson Comments (4)

Pornic and Les-Moutiers-en-Retz with a Lanterne des Morts

Tuesday, September 20, 2016


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Actually got the internet to work long enough to check messages from Kelly, our catsitter, and send a reply. My Kindle seems to be faster than the laptop . . . After breakfast and fighting with the internet, we left for Pornic to see the sea . . . and whatever else we could find. Our GPS routed us around Nantes on the Peripherique which was busy but not too crowded. It didn’t take long to get to Pornic and we immediately found parking on the harbor. Then we couldn’t figure out how to pay for it because they have a very strange system and very odd caisse automatique. A gentleman finally showed Ed how to get a one-hour ticket for free so we had an hour to explore. Then we would wait ten minutes and have two hours more free for lunch. I love the French . . . lunch parking is always free.

Villa on the harbor at Pornic

Villa on the harbor at Pornic

Pornic from Quai Leray

Pornic from Quai Leray

*****

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After taking pictures of the harbor and château, we set off up many stairs to the upper town to visit Église St. Gilles, whose tower we had spotted from afar. The upper town is very different from the harbor area with the church, Hotel de Ville and large covered market to go with the shops . . . no tourist shops up there. The church is small and spare but has very beautiful and intensely colored stained glass windows.

Eglise St. Gilles in Pornic

Eglise St. Gilles in Pornic

*****

Château in Pornic

Château in Pornic


We continued through the upper town to the château which is closed to the public, and walked down and around the base to the harbor where we spotted a restaurant at Beau Soleil Hotel. We couldn’t pass up a hotel named for us, so we went in. They didn’t open for fifteen minutes but reserved a table for us by a window overlooking the harbor. There was a board walk along the coast below the château so we climbed down and enjoyed a short walk. Fortunately it was low tide so it was a nice dry walk. We walked back and Ed went to check the car since we had ten minutes between our free hour and the free two-hour lunch.

Harbor and château in Pornic

Harbor and château in Pornic

*****

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At noon, on free parking again, we claimed our table at the restaurant. We ordered rillettes of tuna to start, merlu with rice and vegetables as a main and ice cream for dessert. The starter and dessert were excellent, but the plat was very close to tasteless even though the fish was fresh. The coffee and Muscadet were also top notch but we probably wouldn’t return there. Too bad; great location. [Restaurant L’Ana’Gram (in Hotel Beau Soleil); Place du Petit Nice 44210 Pornic; tel: +33 (0)2 4082-5125]

*****

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We walked the length of the harbor and then got the car and set our GPS for Les-Moutiers-en-Retz to see what was there. It is a lovely, utterly peaceful town with a magnificent church. St. Pierre has a huge and stunning altar, part from the eleventh century and part from the sixteenth century, but the immediate impression is of an amazing Baroque altarpiece in the otherwise modest church. This church also had very nice stained glass windows and the hanging ship we see in so many churches near the sea. Outside in the adjoining park is a Lanterne des Morts like the one in Sarlat but much smaller. It is the only Lanterne des Morts in France that still is working. The tower has three small windows that allow the light to pass through from a lamp that shines every time a death occurs in the parish and on the Day of the Dead. Fortunately, there was no light the day we were there. The entire town was peaceful and very well kept. We loved it. Lanterne des Morts web site

Eglise St. Pierre in Moutiers-en-Retz

Eglise St. Pierre in Moutiers-en-Retz

Eglise St. Pierre, Moutiers-en-Retz

Eglise St. Pierre, Moutiers-en-Retz

Ship in Eglise St. Pierre, Moutiers-en-Retz

Ship in Eglise St. Pierre, Moutiers-en-Retz

Eglise St. Pierre, Moutiers-en-Retz

Eglise St. Pierre, Moutiers-en-Retz

*****

Chapelle St.-Jean-Baptiste-de-Prigny

Chapelle St.-Jean-Baptiste-de-Prigny


Next we used the town map, followed signs and actually ended up at the Chapelle de Prigny once owned by the Templars. The (La) Chapelle St.-Jean-Baptiste-de-Prigny is an eleventh century chapel and it was tightly locked so we took outside pictures. There are some very nice photos at their web site. Chapelle de Prigny web site

Chapelle St.-Jean-Baptiste-de-Prigny

Chapelle St.-Jean-Baptiste-de-Prigny

*****

Fishing hut with flying nets

Fishing hut with flying nets

Then we decided to try for Port du Collet on the Atlantic. We found it and it is in a wild and wonderful area with many fishermen’s shelters that have flying nets. We parked at the Maison de l’Eclusier with a bridge over the channel. We climbed the bridge to see the entire area. Then we started walking around and I discovered the birds. We were in a marais (swamp) and lots of water so in one spot were dozens of egrets, herons, ducks and two beautiful swans. I went crazy taking pictures! Port du Collet web site

Port du Collet near Moutier-en-Retz

Port du Collet near Moutier-en-Retz

Port du Collet near Moutier-en-Retz

Port du Collet near Moutier-en-Retz

Some of the birds near Port du Collet

Some of the birds near Port du Collet

Swans near Port du Collet

Swans near Port du Collet

Fishing huts and nets along the road

Fishing huts and nets along the road

*****

Scene from the Bridge by La Maison de l'Eclusier

Scene from the Bridge by La Maison de l'Eclusier


We then started home and met reality on the Nantes Peripherique . . . serious traffic. We were very happy to escape to our gite in a quiet vineyard

Posted by Beausoleil 15:37 Archived in France Tagged landscapes birds scenery harbors seashore port_du_collet Comments (1)

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